fit-test.3mf
The three labelled socket samples. Import as separate objects, keep at 100% scale and use the same PLA and print profile as your head.
Print it. Paint it. Make it yours.
A practical guide to your pencil head, from the first socket test to the final brushstroke. Start with FDM and PLA, then tune for your own printer.
Which file should I use?
Download a fit sample first, then prepare the head with the clearance that works for your pencil.
fit-*.stl
Individual socket samples from the ZIP bundle. The filename gives the radial clearance. Print separately if you want to test just one size.
head.3mf
The fitted head with your chosen socket. This is geometry in millimetres; choose your own printer, PLA profile and supports in the slicer.
head.stl
The same fitted sculpt for slicers that prefer STL. Import in millimetres at 100% scale. You only need to print one of the head files.
kit.zip + instructions.md
The head, fit samples and guide for that preparation. Keep these together so you can match the successful clearance to the correct head.
Original GLB
The generated head with its colour textures. It has no prepared pencil socket. Use the fitted STL or 3MF for your pencil topper; screen colours are not printed paint.
Your first print, step by step.
1. Inspect the sculpt
Use Sculpt mode and rotate under the head. Check hair, glasses, ears and the underside. Fine lines in the colour preview may be texture rather than physical relief, and details thinner than your nozzle can disappear.
2. Measure your pencil
For a round socket, measure the widest part: diameter on a round pencil, corner to corner on a hexagonal pencil. For a hexagonal socket, measure across opposite flats. Include the metal ferrule if fitting over an eraser. Keep the shape that worked in your test.
3. Test the three sockets
Print the fit samples at 100% scale with your final PLA and profile. Keep track of the clearance labels in the slicer’s object list; print each sample separately if needed. Clear the entrance and test gently without forcing the pencil.
4. Prepare the matching head
Select the clearance that grips securely without cracking, then prepare again. Adjust Head height in the studio to change the face size while keeping the socket fixed. Scaling in the slicer changes the socket too.
5. Slice for the face
For a 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.12–0.16 mm layers, three walls and 15–20% infill are starting points to test, not a certified profile. Use your printer’s PLA temperatures and speed profile. Start with the flat underside on the bed and preview every layer.
6. Check supports and fit
Use supports where the chin, ears or hair need them. Organic or tree supports may reduce marks on the face. Inspect the socket roof and keep its opening accessible; any internal support must be removable. Let the print cool, remove supports carefully and test fit, retention and balance.
Files contain geometry, not toolpaths, supports or a printer profile. A closed mesh still needs slicing and a physical test. Resin printing needs its own material, curing and fit tests; our starting guidance is for FDM with PLA.
A little paint. A lot of personality.
A single-colour print is a blank canvas. Use the portrait and colour preview as references for skin, hair, eyes and glasses. The downloadable sculpt does not reproduce the preview’s colours automatically.
1. Prepare gently
Test the pencil fit before painting. Remove support marks, lightly sand rough areas with fine abrasive and clean off dust. Avoid sanding away facial details. Let the surface dry and mask the socket so paint cannot change the fit.
2. Prime in thin coats
Use a plastic-compatible hobby primer, following its label. A brush-on primer is an easy starting point. Apply a light coat and let it dry; thick filler or heavy primer can hide the eyes, beard and hair you want to keep.
3. Build up the colour
Water-based acrylic hobby paints work well for a first attempt. Start with skin and hair, then use a fine brush for eyes, eyebrows and glasses. Apply several thin coats rather than one thick coat, letting each layer dry.
4. Add detail and protect it
A light drybrush can highlight hair, and a subtle wash can bring out sculpted recesses. Try these on a spare print first. Finish with a compatible matte or satin varnish, allow it to cure as directed and remove the socket mask before the final fit test.
We’ll share real painted-head examples and the colours and techniques used as they’re ready. The previews currently shown are digital models; a painted example will be clearly labelled as a photograph of a finished print.
Follow paint and primer instructions for ventilation, drying and handling, and control sanding dust. For a more detailed walkthrough, see Prusa’s guide to finishing and painting 3D prints.
If your first attempt needs a tweak.
The socket is too tight or too loose
Check the scale, socket shape and measured pencil width. Clear supports and any widened first layer at the entrance. Try the next clearance sample; if none fits, adjust the width or clearance in the studio and prepare again using the same generated head.
The face looks softer than the preview
Compare with Sculpt mode first. Smaller heads, thick layers, support marks and heavy primer can hide detail. Try a smaller layer height or a larger Head height in the studio. Changing print preparation uses the saved head and does not generate a new model.
There are marks on the chin or hair
Review the support contact points and orientation in your slicer. Keep contacts off visible facial areas where practical. Remove supports slowly after cooling, especially near glasses and ears.
I’m unsure about a file or a failed print
Send support your creation ID, printer, nozzle size, material and slicer settings. A photo of the issue and a layer-preview screenshot help us understand what happened.
These small printed parts are not designed or certified as children’s toys. Check your finished topper for loose pieces, sharp edges and a secure fit before use.